By Jessica Sidman from Washington City Paper

There’s hardly a junk food out there that some local chef hasn’t given the gourmet touch. (Ho Hos? Check. Pop Tarts? Double check.) But a fancy take on Doritos? That’s one I haven’t seen until The Dabney.

The rustic chips that come with the Shaw restaurant’s smoked catfish dip don’t look much like the cheese powdered-up triangles you get from a vending machine. But there’s enough resemblance that chef Jeremiah Langhorne and his team have taken to calling them “artisanal Doritos” amongst themselves.