One way to see the world is to book a table at Chloe. Roasted sweet corn spritzed with lime and scattered with queso fresco puts me on a street corner in Mexico City. Springy Bavarian sausage with vinegary sliced potatoes and mustard whisks me to Oktoberfest. Sumac-sprinkled hummus decked out with roasted mushrooms and slivered buttered almonds has me dreaming of the Middle East.

Dessert is as delightful as any small plate before it. My pet of the moment is manchego cheesecake on shredded phyllo and crowned with a lemon-quince sorbet. The long list of hits, served in a light-filled room by genial guides, has only gotten better since chef Haidar Karoum set up shop near Nationals Park. My past two visits, he was nowhere in sight, a compliment to the cast who cook and plate as if he were front and center. Drinks? Dates? Just a bite? Chloe is great for any occasion.

3 stars (Excellent)

Chloe: 1331 Fourth St. SE. 202-313-7007. .

Open: Dinner daily, brunch weekends.

Prices: Sharing plates $12-$33.

Sound check: 75 decibels / Must speak with raised voice.

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